Celebrity facialist reveals why oil-based products are actually BETTER for oily skin
For women who are plagued with greasy skin, the idea of splashing on oil-based products on their face every night no doubt seems like a giant contradiction.
But celebrity facialist Sue Dann has revealed that oil-based products are actually the key to effectively hydrating the skin and ending a cycle that often causes acne.
Sue, the expert behind Dr. Spiller Biomimetic Skincare with Omniderm, wants to dispel the notion that oil-based creams are heavy, pore-clogging catastrophes.
And Sue, who has worked with the likes of Sylvia Jeffreys and Chloe Morello, revealed to FEMAIL exactly why we need to stop being so afraid of oil.
Celebrity facialist Sue Dann (pictured) has revealed that oil-based products are actually the key to effectively hydrating the skin and ending a cycle that often causes acne
Sue noted that many skincare products are water-based, meaning the small oil droplets are 'dispersed throughout the water'.
'Oil-based products are the opposite,' she told Daily Mail Australia. 'Minute water droplets are suspended throughout the oil phase.'
'Water-based products have their place, however it is scientifically proven that they are not that effective when it comes to hydrating the skin. The delivery of many active ingredients are better using oil-based products.'
There are five myths surrounding oil-based products that Sue wants to bust: Oil-based creams are greasy and unpleasant; Oily skin requires oil-free products; Oil-based products clog pores and cause blackheads; Oil-based products are not easily absorbed by the skin.
'Oil-based products are proven to hydrate the skin better and longer than water-based creams,' she explained.
'This property is very much misunderstood and undervalued. An oil-based cream will protect the skin better against external aggressors - it effectively reinforces the skin's own acid mantle.'
Sue revealed that oil-based products have actually been proven to hydrate the skin better and longer than water-based creams (stock image)
With better hydration and better protection of the skin comes a decrease in inflammation, Sue added.
'Decreased inflammation will lead to a reduction of capillaries, and therefore a reduction in redness in the skin.'
'This is all highly beneficial since inflammation is one of the main causes of skin ageing.'
A decrease in inflammation will also allow pigmented skin to eventually slough off and reduce the overall level of pigmentation on the face, Sue added.
She also noted that oil-based products are 'proven to be a superior delivery system for many active ingredients', citing a year-long Italian study that measured skin elasticity.
'The study showed that skin elasticity improved considerably with oil-based cream,' she said. 'No difference in elasticity was observed when water-based cream was used.'
Oil is a vital component for the skin, which will actually produce more oil if we try to strip it with harsh drying products.
'The skin produces oil to protect itself against moisture loss. This is a survival mechanism,' Sue explained. 'Without oil in the skin, we would not survive.'
With better hydration and better protection of the skin comes a decrease in inflammation, which can also help combat skin pigmentation (stoc k
'If we strip oils out of the skin, we are destroying this vital defence. The skin responds to the threat by producing more oil. Repeated stripping will lead to inflammation and redness.'
By using an oil-free moisturizer, you actually just helping the skin lose even more of this integral moisture.
'This creates a vicious cycle of the skin creating oil,' Sue said. 'Excessive cleansing removes the oil, the skin produces more oil, and the steps repeat. Eventually you end up with inflamed skin.'
And while oily skin is not directly related to acne, Sue explained that dehydrated skin can lead to unsightly spots.
'Dehydration of the skin can actually be one of the causes of acne, as dead skin cells are not sloughed off naturally,' she said.
'This contributes to the blocking of oil glands, which can be the start of a pimple.'
The correct response to oily skin is a gentle cleanser that will remove oil, grime, and make up without stripping the skin.
'An oil-based cream that is formulated to mimic the skin's natural acid mantle should follow this,' Sue said. 'This will slow moisture loss from the skin.'
'If you have oily skin, in our experience it takes about five days of application of an oil-based cream for the skin's natural sebum production to normalise.'
Sue also recommends checking the ingredients in your primers, which she said can become harmful to the skin when they're packed with silicones.
'The idea of a primer is to create an even canvas of the skin for better application of foundations, and a key ingredient employed by most manufacturers to achieve this is silicones,' she explained.
Sue also recommends checking the ingredients in your primers, which she said can become harmful to the skin when they're packed with silicones (stock image)
'Yes, it's a good and inexpensive way of getting that all-important smooth as silk finish, but it's a hidden trap.'
'Recent studies from Canada have found that silicones trap dirt, clog pores, cause congestion and acne, and make skin dull and dehydrated.''
'Most worrying of all is that silicones interfere with cell renewal and block beneficial ingredients from being absorbed into the skin's epidermis. They simply do nothing worthwhile for your skin and, to add to that, they are impossible to remove.'
In addition to silicones, Sue also recommends avoiding make up with bismuth oxychloride - a common ingredient that gives a 'shiny pearl effect'.
Before you begin a regime with oil-based products, Sue recommends having your skin diagnosed by a therapist who has been trained in them.
'The therapist will prescribe the correct cream for the skin type and/or concern. Then it is a matter of following the instructions,' she said.
'There may be a short period of adjustment, including possibly some purging - a breakout. The skin will then balance resulting in a healthy glow.'
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